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Mar 17, 2023

Microblading: Everything To Know About The Semi

Hiii, fullest brows ever. If you’re someone who’s obsessed with your eyebrows

Hiii, fullest brows ever.

If you’re someone who's obsessed with your eyebrows and how to make them look fuller, you've likely come across microblading at least once in the last few years. The semi-permanent treatment is quickly becoming a super trendy way to fill in your brows without having to reach for your eyebrow pencil every morning, since it uses a blade to deposit pigment into your skin.

Meet the experts: Nika Randall, brow and lip blush artist and Operations Manager at Hairy Little Things in California, Jessica Rowson, certified microblading and brow artist at Hairy Little Things in California, Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist specializing in skincare and beauty treatments, Piret Aava, eyebrow specialist, makeup artist, certified esthetician, and cosmetic tattoo specialist

Sounds intriguing, no? If you’re interested in getting your brows microbladed, just know that there's a lot to learn about the treatment. So of course WH turned to a few experts for the answers.

Ahead, learn more about what microblading is, who should get their brows microbladed, how much it costs, and how long microblading lasts.

Microblading is a semi-permanent cosmetic treatment that will make your eyebrows appear thicker and fuller by depositing pigment into your brows with a small blade formed of small needles to give the effect of naturally-growing brows. They’re added individually through "hair-like" strokes says Nika Randall, senior brow and lip blush artist and operations manager at Hairy Little Things in California.

"The goal is to make fine, short strokes resembling the illusion of real hair," adds Jessica Rowson, certified microblading and brow artist. And BTW, it's completely different from eyebrow tattooing.

"The main difference between microblading and eyebrow tattooing is the longevity of results, technique, placement, and composition of the pigmented ink," says Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist specializing in skincare and beauty treatments. With microblading, a blade is used, and while both techniques deposit color into the dermis, or the second layer of the skin, the pigment is applied at a shallower skin depth between 0.08 and 0.15 millimeters, so it can fade quicker than a tat.

With brow tattoos (a.k.a., ombré brows or powder brows), a rotary machine with a needling device is used to put ink deeper into the skin in the form of dots or pixels, at a depth of at least 1 millimeter or more, Rowson and Dr. Shirazi explain. "A brow tattoo is more of a filled-in, solid look whereas microblading creates negative space between the strokes for a more natural look," Randall says.

Additionally, the pigment used in microblading will remain true to color (and dissolves within one or two years) while brow tattoo ink can fade to a blue or green color.

If you have patchy, thin, or uneven brows and have a busy lifestyle where you feel like you don't have as much time for your beauty routine (or if you have an allergy to specific makeup products), look into microblading. It's perfect for those wanting to invest in any sort of low-maintenance eyebrow routine.

"Microblading is suitable for people who are tired of waking up and spending so much time filling in their brows," Randall says. "But if you wanted to have a glam day with more makeup on, you can always fill them in and you will have an easy shape to follow."

The best results come from those with small pores and a normal skin type. "Oil in the skin can cause the microblading stroke to expand and blur so the less oily the client skin is, the better the result would be," Rowson says.

Just remember that everyone's skin is different—the pigment might not look the same in everyone's brows, so try to keep realistic expectations, says Piret Aava, an eyebrow specialist, makeup artist, certified esthetician, and cosmetic tattoo specialist. "Some skin does not want to keep the pigment at all, but we don't know unless we try," she says. "Strokes will soften and fade over time and they will not stay sharp and crisp, but it is still so much better than [a] pencil."

One major benefit of microblading is that it makes your beauty routine shorter in the morning and takes away the challenge of having thin, uneven, or patchy brows. They also frame your face literally 24/7 and are more symmetrical, but they’re also semi-permanent, compared to eyebrow tattoos or transplants. "Getting microblading can truly be a life-changing moment," Rowson adds.

But like anything, microblading comes with cons too. First, it can be pricey and painful for some, and there's a risk of infection or a potential reaction to the pigments used. There's also a chance you might not like the placement of the strokes, Dr. Shirazi says. "One downside would be that you will be stuck with the shape you choose for up to three years," Aava adds.

But there's also a bit of down time after the procedure, and the whole ordeal requires two different appointments because a majority of clients need a 6-8 week touch up, where the artist will help full in any patchiness and make the brows darker and thicker if desired. "This will help the longevity of their new brows insuring that (depending on skin types) they will not need to return for a touch up for at least a year," Rowson says.

She also says her clients receive a 10-day aftercare plan to guide them through the different healing phases. "The day after their appointment, they may see the eyebrow area turn very dark, then it will soften and peel (either lightly like dandruff or patchy in chunks)," then the color looks like it fades before it returns," she notes. Overall, she tells patients to wait one full month before being fully healed, but it's a different process for everyone because everyone has a different skin type.

But also, it's not a "no-risk procedure," she adds, recommending you do your own research and read reviews of an artist and look at their healed work before booking.

After the initial treatment and the touch up appointment, the range of how long microblading lasts is one to three years before they’re completely faded. "Results last depending on skin type, lifestyle, and products you use and how fast your skin metabolizes that pigment," Aava says. Rowson and Randall encourage clients to come in once a year for a faded annual touch up.

Although pain is subjective, microblading is a "very mild" procedure, Rowson says, but clients can opt for numbing cream before and during the sessions. An injection anesthetic is also an option, Dr. Shirazi says.

"I describe the feeling as little ‘cat scratches,’" Rowson says, with Randall adding that her clients typically rate it no higher than a four out of ten on the pain scale. After the procedure, your brows might feel like they’re gotten a mild sunburn, but that feeling should fade within 24 hours.

And caffeine and alcohol can affect your sensitivity, so remember to avoid drinking those 24 hours before your appointment—pre-care matters!

The cost will depend on the location you’re getting the treatment and the experience of the artist. However, the typical range is $500 to $1000 (though it can go up to $1200), and touch ups cost less than the initial treatment.

First, if you have any skin allergies or sensitivities, do a test spot before getting the whole procedure done, and wait one week to see if you have a reaction from the pigments. If you’re prone to cold sores, have a conversation with your doc about beginning prophylactic treatments to avoid potential outbreaks, Dr. Shirazi says.

On the day of your appointment, your artist should first have a conversation with you about your brow goals, map out the shape you’re aiming for, and go over any concerns you might have before starting the treatment, and photos of your brows might be taken.

"The outline always looks more intense than the finished product," Randall says. "I tell my clients to imagine their outline as a coloring book where I draw the microbladed strokes within the lines." After this, the area will be cleansed with antiseptic and alcohol and the numbing cream will be applied so the area numbs for around 20 to 25 minutes. During this time, you’ll sign a consent form about your medical history, medications, and consent for getting the procedure.

The procedure, which, according to Dr. Shirazi, consists of the artist dipping "the microblade tool into the ink placing tiny incisions into the skin in various directions, using saline to wipe off excess pigment," takes around 30 to 45 minutes, with gel lidocaine being applied throughout so the area stays numb. Then, a healing balm will be applied.

When you're done, your artist will go over after-care instructions and make sure to address any concerns you might have. There will be some mild to moderate redness afterward and possibly a feeling of a mild sun-burn that will go away within a half hour, depending on your skin type and sensitivity. There may be redness, tenderness, swelling, and itching right after the treatment, with flaking and tightness starting two to three days after, but all symptoms might last up to a week. "Changes in color, definition, and texture to change on a daily basis," Dr. Shirazi adds. They might look darker for one week.

Post-appointment, your skin will take an average of 28 to 42 days to heal, she says, but the aftercare only lasts around 10 days. However, these first 10 days of healing are the most important, and then after that, you can go back to your normal lifestyle.

Avoid heavy workouts and cleansing your face for 48 hours, and when you do cleanse, wash with only water, avoiding the treatment area, which should be kept dry for one week after, Aava says.

"Microblading is not one size fits all," Rowson says. "Clients should be aware of this if trying to compare themselves to others. Everyone is beautiful and unique in their own individual way."

Addison Aloian (she/her) is an editorial assistant at Women's Health. When she's not writing about all things pop culture, health, beauty, and fashion, she loves hitting leg day at the gym, shopping at Trader Joe's, and watching whichever hockey game is on TV. Her work has also appeared in Allure, StyleCaster, L’Officiel USA, V Magazine, and Modern Luxury Media.

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